Tuesday, February 5, 2019

Period costume: Edwardian Womens Clothing, circa 1910s day look

The second part of the guide on how to make a costume for a turn-of-the-century middle class person (or how we made it work for the Titanic exhibition)!

For masculine tips on what to wear, scroll down!

Full body


Closeup

Most of the passengers on the Titanic was not wealthy! For these passengers, a two or three piece suit was worn for most occasions. Since it took fashion a while to "move down", the 2nd and 3rd class were usually a few years behind the upper class, but they also kept the fashion for a few years longer.

So you will be surprised that you might already have a lot of the clothing required at home for the period. If you are a 80's buff you might be better off than most, since clothing from that time were inspired by the Edwardian era.

Lets make a break down of the individual pieces of my costume.

Underwear
I had normal panties and a black lace-up corset on underneath. I should also have had on a chemise, but what people don't see doesn't exist ;)

Coat / Jacket
I wore a black cotton cape-ish short jacket on top, mostly because the weather. There was rain on the horizon and I kept it in the car just in case. It works because of the dark colour and the wide cut. As a side note: The skirt and coat does NOT need to match!

Blouse
Try to find something off-white / ivory with lace. Go with a high neck and long sleeves for a modest look. Buttons up the back was a staple, but if you cant find it that is fine. The one I am wearing in the picture has two in the back of the neck. I also think it is made from polyester, where it should be made from cotton, so as long as it looks good...

Skirt

Ideally the skirt should be make out of wool with a full A-line fit in a dark colour. One might wear a petticoat or another full skirt underneath to give it more volume, since moving around is more practical, but it does not mean only those types of skirts were worn. 

Suits back then had skirts with high waists and slim fit. I went for a more tight fitting "hobble skirt", named after the way it impeded the walk, in a more bright pattern suited for the summer months.

Hat
In 1910s the philosophy was "the bigger the better" when it came to hats! Large and wide-brimmed styles made their way on top of most women’s heads, regardless of their social standing.

For 2nd or 3rd class you can use a plain felt, wool or straw hat for the base. Then you add your own touch with accessories such as ribbons, flowers and feathers!

I had a cheap headband with artificial flowers left over from midsummer's eve that I paired with a wide-brimmed, floppy hat that I had at home for a 1910s look.

Shoes
Shoes from the era was boots made out of leather and narrow in the foot and ankle-length with laces up the front or buttons on the side.

I wore a pair of laced up black "granny boots" with a pompadour heel (kind of similar to the ones pictured below). I think they are more at home in the previous Victorian era rather than the later Edwardian, but they are similar enough to what was worn. And who is going to inspect my footwear anyway?


Granny boots were worn from the Victorian era into the 1950s
and got a revival in the 1980s!

Jewellery
Both the Art Nouveau (natural, curving designs that focused on nature) and the Arts and Crafts movement (craftsmanship) had influences on the jewellery of the Edwardian period. It is also famous for the widespread use of filigree; delicate metalwork that gives jewellery a light and ethereal feel. Tassels, bows, wreaths, strings of flowers, and long scrolls were also popular!

Necklace: As pearls were one of the main stones used (the other being diamonds), I went with a long plastic pearl necklace, wrapped twice around my neck, otherwise it would be TOO long.

Earrings began the century as simple diamond studs but were soon "dropped down" with ear hooks. Designed to move and sway, the drop form was popular and I was wearing a pair of plastic drop earrings, turned from clear to a yellow hue with age.

Bag

For the day-look, a simple bag is the most practical for a 2nd or 3rd class person to go about their day with. I went for a leather bag with handle, strap and a hinged closure.

Accessories
Gloves: Edwardian gloves were a MUST to wear at ALL times (except eating or using the restroom). Lace or mesh gloves are the most comfortable for summer. A good rule of thumb is: Short sleeves = Long Gloves (to cover up any skin).
Long sleeves = Short gloves.

I wore a pair of short, white nylon gloves. 

Fan: A nice accessory to have during summer. They were usually made out of lace, but my research didn't tell me which class used them, so I decided to add it as a accessory. Mine was made out of plastic and the "fan" part was paper with a painted decoration!

Make-up
Up until around 1910, make-up was still a bit of a taboo, yet most women did SOMETHING to enhance her looks, like using rouge on the cheeks or powdering the skin for example and performed by most young women on a daily basis.

Go for matte eye-shadows, rouges and lipsticks for the Edwardian look. Since most of the make-up was handmade at that time, it can get a little bit tricky to find the right products for the era, but here is a quick guide:

Face: Light powder.
Eye Shadow: Gold and silver for evenings (nothing for day looks).
Mascara: For darkening light lashes (nothing on dark lashes).
Lips: Red.
Rouge: Applied all over the cheeks.

I went only with a light "dusting" of a mineral foundation on my face and neck to even out my complexion. Keeping it natural!  


DONE! :)


This is what I was wearing to the Titanic Exhibition and how we turned what we already had at home into a 1910 second-to-third-class Edwardian 'day dress' costume for women (or feminine peoples)!

Monday, February 4, 2019

Period costume: Edwardian Mens Clothing, circa 1910s day look

As promised, here is a quick guide on how to dress like a turn-of-the-century gentleman from the middle class (or how we made it work for the Titanic exhibition)!

My husband lost some weight last year and it was a perfect opportunity to pull off the Edwardian "Sack Suit" look.

Why the "Sack Suit" name?

Well, in the 1910s men wore suits that were straight in cut and somewhat loose fitting, appearing as if it was a size too big, like a 'sack'. Colours were mainly dark, such as navy, grey and sometimes brown. The fabric was wool. No substitutes!

This is the outfit we put together for him (close-up at the end):




Lets break down the individual pieces a little bit

Coat / Jacket
The modern coat is the right colour and right fit, but it is a bit too short for the 1910 style. In reality the coat would have been longer, almost down to mid-thigh, but since we were working on a a bit of a budget (time and money wise), hitting 2 out of 3 rights ain't so bad! :)

Pants
The Edwardian pants were roomy over the hips and the legs were straight, tapered slightly and cuffed at the bottom, not showing any sock-action. The modern pants my husband have did not fit that way but it was an easy fix with a straight seam on the sewing machine (I did not cut the fabric, just folding it in slightly so it could easily be undone later).

Vest
He is wearing a normal modern black dress vest. If he felt daring in 1910 he could have worn a contrasting colour to the pants and coat. I will call it a half win!

Neck-wear
Since he didn't have a fancy-coloured vest, he decided to wear a patterned Cravat instead to 'spice' up the look. Fancy! He could also have worn a tie or necktie :)

Shirt
Under the vest he is wearing a modern white shirt with subtle striping. Turns out the shirt has not changed much since Edwardian times. Handy that! However, the collars were a bit different. The modern pointed collars work well, but in the 1910's it could also be winged or rounded, so called 'club collar'.

Hat
We were looking mainly for a derby, bowler or homburg hat in felt or wool. A flat cap, also called golf cap or newsboy hat, would also have been appropriate for his second-or-third-class mixture. During the summer months a straw hat would have been preferable due to the weather!

What we had at home was a soft leather (or similar, maybe mocha?) beret, that was pulled into a newsboy cap shape.


Cane
This is the only piece in the ensemble that really stands out and is not period in ANY way AT ALL. It is made out of metal with a spider-web pattern around a big green acrylic bulb at the top. Still looks good, as most of the top is hidden when he has his hand on it and uses it.

Shoes
Normal black dress shoes worked well here, but in 1910 he would probably have worn a pair of Oxfords to the day dress. Spats could also be worn over the shoe to bridge any gap between shoe and trouser. The shoes of 1910 did not have the modern thin string laces, but wide ribbons. I had some ribbon laying around at home and used that. Not wide, but still ribbon!

Accessories
A classic pocket watch with chain.

DONE! :)


This is what my husband was wearing to the Titanic Exhibition and how we turned what we already had at home into a 1910 second-to-third-class Edwardian 'day dress' costume!

Sunday, February 3, 2019

A super easy, quick DIY sticker project!

A super easy, quick and simple way to make your own stickers with double sided tape!


1. Take a cut out from a magazine, book or other (here I am using a bookmark)
2. Place the cutout on the "sticky side" of the double sided tape.

3. Trim the edges round the cutout and you are done!

Eco-nomic: If you have several cutouts, idealy you want to space them out so you want as little trim-spillage as possible.

Bookmark
Backside of bookmark
And you are done! Now go sticker crazy :)